Friday, 11 July 2014

introducing the K5 and K6



It has been a very long time since I have made 2 prototypes at one time. Actually - I am not sure if I have ever made 2 prototypes at one time. I suppose it was inevitable that a K5 and K6 would be made - I was just not sure when. A good friend and customer got the ball rolling.

I wanted to make a few changes to the K5 and K6 from their similarly sized No.4 versions. The K5 and XSNo.4 are similar and the K6 and SNo.4 are similar. In general, the K-series of planes are designed to be lighter in weight with improved ergonomics - especially in the rear infill. They are lower to the ground and have a wee bit less infill material.




The K5 is 5-1/2" long with a 1-1/2" wide blade. This one is infilled with African Blackwood - a wood that I have not used on a prototype for a long time (my A2 jointing plane from 2005). I had an over-sized set for a XSNo.4 that worked perfectly. It was really nice to work with African Blackwood again - such a hard, dense, stable true Rosewood that is much more complex in color and texture than Ebony. Plus it smells way better than Desert Ironwood. This plane has a V11 blade and a 52.5 degree bed angle.


 









The K6 is 6-1/4" long with a 1-5/8" wide blade. A little narrower than the SNo.4 and with an even more tapered footprint. This one is infilled with another Rosewood that I am not 100% sure about. It is not Brazilian Rosewood - it does not have that tell-tale smell, but it does not smell like Cocobolo either - the next obvious wood. I suspect it may be one of the many odd variants out there that does not really fall into any one category of Rosewood. No matter - it is stunning looking and very pleasant to work with.




It also has that wonderful black streak through it, running front to back. This is a characteristic most common in old growth Brazilian Rosewood but does show up in other Rosewoods from time to time. I have even seen it in old East Indian Rosewood - a rare find even in old growth let alone the more common plantation grown E.I. Rosewood.








I was able to take a few photos of the expanding family of planes, the K4, K5, K6 and K7. I am really pleased with how the family of planes look together. They graduate in size very nicely and while none of the planes are just scaled from one to the next, they look like they are.


























In other news, but related to the K-series of planes... Riley and I were doing some errands yesterday and spotted a new German auto shop just down the street from our house. There were 2 restored VW bugs and then whammo - a silver 1962 Porsche 356. I just about crashed the car as I cranked my neck to stare at it. We cut our errands short and took a short walk, camera in hand. I asked the shop owner if we could look at it and take a few photos. He was fine with it. I  have always loved vintage Porsche’s - 50’s, 60’s up to early 70’s. 911’s in particular, but the 356 is also dreamy. They are pure sculpture, no hard edges anywhere - just smooth flowing curves, one transitioning perfectly into the next. To my eyes - nothing can touch these cars aesthetically.












I am often asked where inspiration comes from. Seeing this car revealed a one word answer - Porsche.

14 Comments:

Blogger natejb said...

It's always amazing to me to see that rare design ability to perfectly dimension each piece. While the naked eye would suggest a simple mathematical scaling equation would do the trick, anyone who's designed anything so painstakingly as yourself knows that it's never that simple. Beautiful work. I will own one of your planes some day. I had a chance to use one at WIA 2013 and I think your planes share something in common with that Porsche 356 - pure sculpture yet peak performance and pure joy to use. You're designs are up there with Dieter Rams and Jony Ive in my opinion.

11 July 2014 15:07  
Blogger Steve Voigt said...

Konrad, those are great looking planes. I've admired the K4 for a while--I have to admit it was a direct inspiration for the first plane I ever sold. It's nice to see the line expanding. I'm a big fan of the 356 as well.

11 July 2014 15:33  
Blogger Steve Kirincich said...

K for Konrad?

11 July 2014 21:44  
Anonymous Kevin said...

Congratulations Konrad. That sequence of planes K series planes look fantastic. Lucky fellow that gets the K5 and K6. :)
Ohhhhh!!!!!! I don't know which I'm drooling over more the family of planes or the 356.
Great work.

14 July 2014 08:16  
Blogger Konrad said...

Thanks natejb - for the very kind comments and for recognizing that scaling a design is more complicated that a simple math equation. Nice to know you had a chance to try one as well.

Cheers,
konrad

14 July 2014 08:23  
Blogger Konrad said...

Hi Steve,

Being able to inspire someone to make their own planes is about as great a compliment one could get - glad it had that effect on your.

I am going to take another walk today and check out the 356 again... it is just too easy being 8 houses away:)

cheers,
konrad

14 July 2014 08:24  
Blogger Konrad said...

Yes Steve - K is for Konrad :)

cheers,
konrad

14 July 2014 08:24  
Blogger Konrad said...

Kevin - it is pretty easy for me - I have a drool bucket beside the 356. I am going to return again today to admire it some more. The lines on it are so complicated really - and free-formed. It is a staggering car.

My friend Richard reminded me that it would likely drive like a VW bug:)

cheers,
konrad

14 July 2014 08:26  
Blogger Tom @ Lumber Logs said...

As for automobile design aesthetics, it is at least as easy to gaze at an Austin-Healey, Jaguar E-type, or Jaguar Mark 2. Ferrari managed a few winners too; what they all have in common is the era: 1950s and 1960s.

16 July 2014 14:44  
Blogger Konrad said...

I am with you Tom - the 50s and 60s were an incredible time in design. There was a classic car show in our downtown last weekend and I loved seeing all the restored cars. There were two E-types - the show could have ended there. I have often thought that someone should bring back the hood ornament - there were some seriously stunning ones at the show.

cheers,
konrad

16 July 2014 17:45  
Blogger Chris Bame said...

Wow Konrad. Great job filling out the K series.The shots of them all lined up had me drooling.
Like the 356 but I'm a Corvette guy!!

18 July 2014 23:23  
Anonymous Derek Cohen said...

Hi Konrad

That plane is just insane with the African Blackwood! It is simply stunning! My compliments.

And, yes, the 356 is also special - curves that flow and go on forever. You have a very good eye.

I am still mourning selling my silver 1957 356A three years ago, after a 12 year restoration. Don't ask. It was replaced by another Porsche, however.

Regards from Perth

Derek
inthewoodshop.com

19 July 2014 07:05  
Blogger Konrad said...

Derek. First things first... you sold a 1957 356a... must have been one of those left arm or 356a conversations. I trust the replacement Porsche is a 1960's 911?

Glad you like the African Blackwood K5, but I am still thinking through the 356a... that one is going to take some time to digest:)

cheers,
konrad

19 July 2014 22:15  
Blogger Konrad said...

Hi Chris,

You can be a Corvette guy - I certainly won't hold it against you:) Do you have a favourite year? Do you like the classics or the new ones? Riley is generally a new power and performance guy - but he is starting to appreciate the lines and forms of the classics now too.

cheers,
konrad

20 July 2014 07:27  

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Friday, 20 June 2014

PM-V11





About 6 months ago, I was given an opportunity to have a few PM-V11 blades made specifically for my planes. I was rather keen to try them out. I was curious to see if they were as good as they were reported to be - everything I had heard or read was overwhelmingly positive, which usually causes me to be somewhat skeptical - too many years in the advertising world I guess.

There have been all sorts of new blade steels on the market over the years, A2, D2, M2 and a few powder metals. All of them fell short of my expectations - for a variety of reasons. Here are the qualities I look for in a plane blade and a bit about how I sharpen.

I flatten the back of all my plane blades - about 1" to 1-1/2" from the cutting edge. I hollow grind the bevel on a low speed Baldor grinder with a Norton 46 grit 3X wheel, roughly at a 30 degree angle. I use Shapton (Pro series) waterstones starting with the 1,000 grit, then 5,000 then 8,000 and end on the 15,000. The hollow grinding allows me to use the blade as as a jig so I don’t use a honing guide. I do not use the ‘ruler technique’ (formerly known as the ruler trick), nor do I use a secondary bevel or micro bevel on the beveled side. This process has evolved over the last 15 years or so and lends itself to high carbon steel (typically 01 or W1). When I have tried new blade steel material, I have tried this same approach with varying results from a little more work, to pain and suffering to downright impossible. So I use different techniques and abrasives which helped greatly, but I kept returning to high carbon steel and the above process.

I like to use a steel that gets wicked sharp quickly. I like a steel that cuts fairly fast (or use an abrasive that can cut it fast) and a steel where I can feel the cutting as I am honing - I like tactile feedback. I like a steel that fails at a consistent rate - one that does not work wonderfully in one pass and then has horrible track marks in the next pass. For me, toughness and edge retension are not the most important quality of a blade steel - it's ability to get sharp fast is more important.

Rightly or wrongly - this is how I sharpen and what I am looking for in a blade.

Most of my personal planes have high carbon steel blades in them, but I do have 2 blades that I use periodically.  A CPM 3V blade made by Steve Elliott and an A2 blade made by Karl Holtey. The 3V blade will only hone with diamonds and the edge I am able to get does not feel as sharp as the edge I can get from a high carbon steel blade, but it is still very sharp and is the best choice for the most challenging woods I work with. The edge retention of this blade makes it worth the extra work to hone it for those special occasions where the wood will turn a high carbon steel blade into a scraper on the first pass. The Holtey blade is the nicest A2 blade I have ever used, and while I really do not like A2 - this blade is quite nice and does not seem to fail in the same manner as the other A2 blades I have tried.

I have been using two V11 blades for the last several months - here are my thoughts based on my experience using them.

I was pleasantly surprised at how well the Shapton Pro-series stones worked with this steel. The pro stones are really best suited to a high carbon steel - they don’t like A2 very much and don’t even think about honing D2 or M2 on them. The V11 cut well, not quite as fast as high carbon, but it seemed like it was faster than A2.  There was a reasonable amount of feedback as I honed.  The blades are fully lapped to the typical Lee Valley standard. Had they not been fully lapped, I am not sure how quickly lapping would go - thankfully I did not need to worry about that. I flattened the backs of 2 blades, starting with the 5K stone on one of them and then the 8K with the other. I am not sure if I will be able to skip the 5K on all of them - I guess I will find out as I lap more.

The bevels were not hollowed, but my grinder made pretty quick work of them. Honing the beveled edge was a dream - very fast and felt like high carbon. In fairness - a hollow ground bevel on an A2 blade goes just as fast - hollow grinding really speeds up honing the bevel side.

What was interesting to me was how quickly the wire burr was removed and how it was removed. It came off very cleanly in a single pass on the 15k stone and the cutting edge felt wet when I slid the top of my fingernail over it. A2, D2, M2 and even 3V to some extent, feel like the burr is not quite removed or like the cutting edge is a little ragged.  I was shown the technique of using the top of your fingernail across the cutting edge many years ago - it is a great way to feel if the edge is smooth or not. If it is smooth it will feel almost wet (and like it will slice your finger off it you press any harder!) - even the slightest nick or break in the edge can be felt across the top of your nail.

The other aspect of these blades I was curious about was how they failed. I was curious to see how long the edge lasted and when it started to die, how quick was that death? What I love so much about high carbon steel is that the edge dies consistently and methodically. There have been many times when I am working and the planed surface is still very good, but I get a sense that I am pushing harder. It is at this point that I pull out the blade and am often surprised at just how dull it is. The blades rarely have big chips out of them (unlike A2), but they are clearly dull and in need of a re-honing. The V11 failed in a very similar way.

After several months, I can safely say that my experience has been very positive and that the edge retention of the V11 blades is quite a bit longer than high carbon steel.  Like high carbon, the V11 just gets dull without big chips. This was great to see, and in very short order, I was returning a freshly honed blade to my plane. I have re-honed the V11 blades many times now - enough that 2 of them have had to be re-hollow ground. I am not as familiar with them as I am with high carbon, but I am sure things will only get better in time.

I was at the new Lee Valley store in Vaughan a few weeks ago and had a small army of planes with me. There were two V11 blades at the show with one of them in the K13. the K13 was the most tried plane of the weekend and when I returned home, it did not need to be re-honed - unlike all the high carbon steel blades. In fact - I still have not re-honed it since and it still cuts very well. Not ‘dining table top final pass’ well... but well enough for most tasks.

At this stage, I am pretty confident that I will be keeping these 2 blades in the planes and add in another one or two. I still love high carbon steel, but this is the first steel to come along that impresses me. For the K13, K7 and K5, high carbon steel blades will be the back-up blades.

Lee Valley was generous enough to offer to make further V11 blades for me on an ongoing basis. I have a few extra blades now and if anyone is interested in having a V11 blade as a second blade for their plane just let me know.

konrad@sauerandsteiner.com






8 Comments:

Anonymous wilbur said...

Hi Konrad,

Quick question: high carbon steel = O-1? or some other steel?

20 June 2014 11:56  
Blogger Konrad said...

high carbon steel = 01. It could also = W1.

cheers,
konrad

20 June 2014 13:18  
Blogger Caleb James said...

I appreciate this review. I wish I could get some tapered ones made to my specs for wooden planes. Lee Valley blades are made so well.

20 June 2014 14:21  
Blogger Kevin Brehon said...

The idea of Lee Valley making blades with my own logo makes me wish I had my own logo.

20 June 2014 23:33  
Blogger Konrad said...

Kevin - that is too funny... and oh-so true! Thanks for the comment - gave me my morning smile.

cheers,
konrad

21 June 2014 07:40  
Blogger Doorslammer said...

Konrad,

I have similar philosophies as you regarding sharpening and edge quality which is why I have also preferred O-1 plane irons. I was wondering if you have the same thoughts about chisels or does this change your preference?

26 June 2014 10:27  
Blogger Konrad said...

I have fully embraced Japanese chisels as there really is no comparison for the work I am doing. I do have some beater chisels that I use for renovating and house work, but those are also carbon steel. I have not tried a V11 chisel yet, but I do not see a need to change what I am currently using.

cheers,
konrad

26 June 2014 12:38  
Anonymous Yalcin said...

Hi Mr Konrad,

Did the Pmv11 blade get as sharp
as 01 steel?

2 July 2014 13:16  

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Thursday, 15 May 2014

Spare Snakewood



Most people who have been in the shop know I have a bit of a wood problem. There is wood everywhere, hanging off the walls, leaning against the walls, tucked under the tables of the jointer, under the tablesaw and just piled in the middle of the floor. I don’t throw much out either - many of the little bits get saved and given away to friends or find their way into scrap boxes - you just never know when you are going to need ’em. 

I have a growing collection of smallish pieces that are just big enough for the smallest planes, and the introduction of the K4 has made many of these perfectly viable.

Some of it is very old Snakewood - offcuts from a violin bow maker. They are less than 6" long, but have exquisite color and pattern to them, not to mention they have been properly seasoned. I have only used Snakewood once before and was dying to use it again.




There was one piece in particular that was large enough for a couple of K4 sets. There is one small rectangular off-cut, but otherwise, the entire piece was used. It felt great to have so little waste. I decided to make another ‘spare’ along side the commissioned plane.





These 2 planes are identical other than one has a bronze lever cap and screw, and the other has a stainless steel lever and screw.




They are 4-1/2" long, have a 52.5 degree bed angle and a 1-1/4" wide, high carbon steel blade.



(click on any of the images for a larger view) 


The K4 with the bronze lever cap and screw is already spoken for but the other is available.












 


The K4 with the stainless steel lever cap and screw is $2,100.00 Cdn + actual shipping costs (and applicable taxes for Canadian customers). 
 













In other news, I will be at the new Lee Valley store in Vaughan on Friday May 23rd and Saturday May 24th demonstrating planes along side Dan Barrett, Rob Lee and Doug Orr. I will have several infills with me so if you want to try any of them out please stop by and say hello.



4 Comments:

Anonymous Brad Quarrie said...

I'm heading to roll my coins right now!
Once again, nicely done my friend.

15 May 2014 20:45  
Blogger JMAW Works said...

Wow the one that is available is stunning hope it sell fast so it doesn't haunt my dreams #someday

15 May 2014 23:25  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Konrad,

Those chamfers are perfect. You clearly put a lot of thought into the detailing on those.

The wood is beautiful too.

Dan

17 May 2014 11:03  
Anonymous Tim said...

I love these. They look fantastic as usual, but I definitely like the one with the bronze better.

20 May 2014 18:48  

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Tuesday, 6 May 2014

lapping & accuracy

A common question I hear is how I flatten the sole and sides of a plane. Most people assume that I have a milling machine, surface grinder or some other mechanical process. I don’t - I lap them by hand. I do use a bench mounted grinder to grind off the proud parts of the dovetails and pins, but other than that - they are lapped by hand. The next question usually has to do with accuracy and there is often a level of skepticism about how accurate they actually are. The implication being that hand lapping could not possibly be as accurate as a surface grinder or other mechanical machinists process. 

Here is the process I go through - I will use an A11 style mitre plane as an example.


Here is the mitre plane after being piened together but before the infills have been installed. It shows the dovetails before grinding.  The photo below shows the plane with the infills installed and the dovetails and pins ground down from the bench grinder. 







I have several different lapping surfaces in the shop. The one in the photo above is a piece of marble inset into the top of the cabinet. I use an automotive sandpaper made by Norton called A275. It is normally used to abrade paint and fiberglass but is by far the longest lasting, least loading paper I have tried. I use a 3M product called Super77 which is a low tack spray adhesive to hold the pieces in place. Once the pieces are worn out, just peel them off and re-apply new ones. Expect to pay about $1 per sheet. As a point of reference, I have used 12 sheets (of 80 grit) so far, and 4 more will finish it off tomorrow. $16 to flatten the sole and sides is pretty good value for money in my books.



In addition to the 2 marble lapping surfaces, I have two 4" thick, 12" wide, and 36" long granite surface plates. I use one of them with A275 attached to them, but only for the final lapping with finer grit(s). The second one is kept clean and is used for measuring and reference.

The other important items are accurate measuring tools - for square and flatness. 


  

The square is one of a set of 3 I bought at the first Woodworking in America. They are in wonderful condition and have knife edges on the inside and outside of the blade. I am always on the lookout for more but have yet to find another.  

The other tool is a Russian straight edge with a very fine knife edge. Here are a few photos of it.






 It is frightfully accurate. Here is a shot of the straight edge on the sole of the mitre plane facing the sun coming through the window. The second photo shows the effects of a 0.001" feeler gauge under one corner. Click on the images for a larger view.




 



As I am lapping, I keep my Starrett square handy and check the progress often. I will use a Sharpie marker to mark spots that are high or if a side is out of square. I make adjustments to my hands, stance and pressure to bring things into square as I am lapping.

Once the lapping on the first (marble) surface is just about done, I still check using my Starrett in multiple places, but I also like to place the plane on the Granite plate and push the knife edge square up to it. This is just another way to cross check that things are in fact square. (It is also important to dust off the reference surface plate before placing the plane and square. Even one piece of loose grit can really screw things up).




 The square pushed up to the sole...



 ... the square pulled back a couple thousandths of an inch to show the light gap (click on the images for an enlarged view).

I check the plane in several spots to make sure it is square across the length of the sole. The only light gaps should be the micro gaps left by the scratches from the individual pieces of grit in the paper. A knife edge square makes things so much easier to see and will reveal gaps that a flat edged Starrett will not.

Hand lapping is physically demanding work, and may not be for everyone, but it is fairly low cost, and with practice, patience and a deliberate watchful eye, is certainly capable of producing excellent results.

It is also good exercise.



(the almost finished mitre plane)

20 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Very interesting post - thanks for sharing your knowledge

6 May 2014 22:32  
Blogger Kevin Brehon said...

Thanks for this post. For me, the metalworking parts of plane making still hold a lot of mystery. Every little bit helps.

6 May 2014 22:58  
Blogger Konrad said...

Hi Kevin,

The metalworking part often seems tricky for people who are used to working with wood. The approach I took was to think about metal as a strange wood with strange working properties. You can do almost anything to metal that you can do to wood... you just need to work a bit differently and with different tools sometimes. This approach has served me very well - maybe unconventional, but it worked for me.

cheers,
konrad

7 May 2014 05:53  
Blogger pmelchman said...

Old school, slow and easy wins every time. Thanks for the insight.

Patrick Melchior

7 May 2014 06:55  
Blogger pmelchman said...

Old school, slow and easy wins every time. Thanks for the insight.

Patrick Melchior

7 May 2014 06:56  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Konrad

An excellent post that reveal much of the thinking behind your exquisite level of work. I too enjoy the metalworking part of "woodworking" in great part due to my early years in the pattern shop of a foundry, and I hope to write and blog more about metalworking int he woodworking shop. Nothing exotic, but sometimes pot roast is preferable to something fussily elegant.

Don Williams

7 May 2014 07:12  
Blogger Richard Wile said...

As an owner of planes from all the major contemporary planemakers, the workmanship and tolerances of all of them are incredible. The means to the end is not apparent in any of them and really should not be an issue - and it isn't. Thanks Konrad for the insight into another way to skin the same cat...

Nice plane BTW :-)

Rich

7 May 2014 10:23  
Blogger Konrad said...

Hi Patrick,

I agree fully with the sentiment of slow and easy and old school, but there is a funny thing that often happens. It starts off slow and easy, but it usually speeds up and skills and confidence increase and suddenly it is fast and easy. This is one of the surprising things I have discovered - handwork seems to know no limits to speed whereas a machine has a much more limited pace.

cheers,
konrad

8 May 2014 05:41  
Blogger Konrad said...

Thanks Don,

I look forward to reading about your experiences with metalworking. I was initially nervous about metal working but planemaking has opened up many doors for me - the biggest one being the initial fear of working with metal in the first place. Once you start, you look at objects very differently knowing you could probably make things you would have overlooked earlier. It is quite liberating.

Love pot roast!

cheers,
konrad

8 May 2014 05:46  
Blogger Konrad said...

Thanks Richard,

This is something that Karl and I have talked about many times - the very different ways in which we work. We have some very common goals but quite radically different ways of getting there. I suspect we would accuse the other of being nuts:) But at the end of the day, if your process accomplishes what you are after (and is appropriately accurate) it does not really matter how you get there.

cheers,
konrad

8 May 2014 05:56  
Blogger Chris Bame said...

Hi Konrad,
Nice post on accuracy. I often wondered what was a good reference, 4" of granite ought to do it : ) Going to have to look into the paper you mentioned too. Thanks for sharing. Really liked the cabinets with the inset marble tops.

Cheers Chris

13 May 2014 12:41  
Blogger Konrad said...

Hey Chris,

Yeah - 4" granite pretty much covers it:) Those cabinets are a funny thing - quite a few people comment on them. They are just utilitarian storage with Ikea pulls. I have been meaning to replace the pulls because every time I lap on that side of the cabinet, I often catch my pants pocket on one of them and tear it off! Either that or whack my knee cap:)

Let me know if you can find the paper or not. It is made in Canada and I assume it is available in the States.

cheers,
konrad

15 May 2014 20:34  
Blogger raney said...

In the states, A275 is known as "champagne magnum"

Someone in the marketing department at norton us undoubtedly wakes up with a laugh every morning over that little bit of buffoonery. I can only assume that Screwcap old thunderbird was deemed a step too far.

Anyway, I get mine from Jamestown distributors over the webs.

Great post Konrad. I do have a surface grinder but have also found hand lapping much more accurate.

29 May 2014 06:54  
Blogger Owen Crane said...

Hi Konrad - I'm wondering how your sidewalls/bottoms are made? You aren't hacksawing and filing these to shape are you? I don't know anything about metalworking, but went back and read every single post you've made and have learnt a lot - great blog - and there are lots of things you do I didn't know were possible but that seems especially crazy. I showed your work to a metalworker friend and he thought it must be cnc/waterjet/laser or something to that effect, and looking at sidewalls like the 28.5" jointer, I had to think it might be likely. Also I think in all the years, you haven't covered that? Are your sidewalls and soles outsourced? I assumed you must be doing things in a similar way to holtey - but his blog is all full of pictures of milling machines and cnc's...I also noticed he uses the cnc on his knobs and totes, so maybe your approaches are more different than I thought at first. Anyhow would really appreciate some feedback on that!
Great work, as much as it seems comical at this point in my life to own a plane worth as much as yours....one day I will have one.
Thanks!
Owen

14 June 2014 17:46  
Blogger Konrad said...

Hi Owen,

Thanks for the note, your comments and questions. Just when I thought I had covered every aspect of planemaking, you have pointed out an area that I may not have touched on enough.

The sides and soles are cut with waterjet. Waterjet and not laser. I have cringed when a few people have employed a few laser cutting outfits thinking they were saving money. Laser cutting 01 tool steel is not a good idea - you are effectively heat-treating the edges and filing and piening will be a nightmare. Waterjet cutting is a little more expensive, but it can cut 01, bronze or even a heat treated blade. The cut is not 100% perfect, but it is fairly close and the amount of hand work to get everything perfect is worth the expense when compared to hand cutting with a hacksaw. I know - I did that for the first 3 years. I don't regret it at all - it was great practice for sawing and there are still times now when I will hacksaw a quick part or make a modification. It is amazing how accurately you can saw with some practice under your belt!

After waterjet cutting, there is a lot of hand filing and fitting, but there is no machining or milling from that point forward - the waterjet eliminates the grunt work.

All the wooden parts are cut in my show on a bandsaw and then various other saws (mostly handsaws), files rasps and chisels. It is the woodworking aspect of planemaking that drew me into it in the first place - I view metal as a strange wood with strange properties and proceed that way. It may be unorthodox, but it has severed me quite well up to this point anyway.

cheers,
konrad

16 June 2014 21:49  
Blogger Owen Crane said...

Ah cool, - Thanks for the response Konrad - no idea how you manage to build this stuff and keep us all informed at the same time.
Cheers,
Owen

16 June 2014 21:58  
Blogger Caleb James said...

Another good post. Thanks for sharing!

20 June 2014 14:28  
Blogger Konrad said...

thanks Caleb - glad you enjoyed it.

cheers,
konrad

20 June 2014 14:55  
Blogger pmelchman said...

Konrad,

what lubricant do you use when you use the sand paper? Simple Green, plain water...oil? or nothing.

patrick melchior

26 June 2014 20:50  
Blogger Konrad said...

Hi Patrick,

I don't use any lubricant when lapping on the sandpaper.

cheers,
konrad

26 June 2014 21:16  

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